So, you want to make hats. Where to begin? There are an array of pre-made hat bases available in a variety of materials so, for many people, this may be where to start. Pre-made bases allow you to play with different trimming techniques and are a great entry point to hat making, especially as it can be difficult to find millinery educators who teach hat blocking in some areas. Plus, the supplies required can be expensive. But one day, you may want to make your own bases and that’s where hat blocks come in.
Hat blocks are wooden forms carved into the shape of a hat. Hat making materials, like sinamay or felt, are stretched over these blocks to create a hat. There are also aluminum hat blocks, but these are generally only used for larger scale hat manufacturing using industrial pressing machines.
Wooden hat block carving is an art form in itself, with only a limited number of craftsmen making them. This does mean that they can be quite expensive to purchase and, as many hat block makers carve blocks to order, it may take a couple of months to receive them. Europe, the United Kingdom and Australia are home to the majority of hat block makers today. Award-winning hat block maker Owen Morse-Brown, of family-run Guy Morse-Brown Hat Blocks in England, is pictured below.
It is also possible to find vintage hat blocks on online auctions and collectible markets. Some of these vintage blocks have gorgeous shapes not readily found today. Purchasing vintage blocks can be a slightly cheaper way to start your hat block collection. They are also fun to look at and study for design ideas.
You can also make your own hat blocks. To start with, simply look around your home for shapes that could be used as molds (think salad bowls and side plates). You can also block simple fascinator bases with inexpensive Styrofoam heads, covered with plastic. Some people also use adhered layers of industrial foam sheeting, which are carved and coated to create one of a kind shapes for blocking. There are health risks associated with carving these types of materials, however, so make sure to get proper advice and instructions from an expert before trying this at home!
When you are ready to order your first new hat block, there are a number of variables to consider. What kind of hats do you want to make? For men or women? What size should you order? What shapes do you need? Some hat block makers offer starter kits or bundles. If you aren’t ready to spend that much, though, there are some basic shapes that are useful to have.
A crown block is the most common block. It is useful to have a pair of oval crowns, one with a rounded top like the shape of a head and the other with a flat top. But, if you can only get one block, go with a rounded crown. It will have a flat bottom which can be blocked as well!
Brim blocks come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Having a large and a small size available is a good place to start. A cloche brim block is a nice smaller option, while a larger cartwheel brim can be utilized for a variety of shapes.
A hat block stand will keep your work up off the table and make blocking much easier. Collars to fit your crowns and brims will help you to make the extension for sewing the two pieces together.
As for size, most women wear a 22”- 23” (56cm – 58.5 cm) hat, so a block in that range should cover a majority of clients. Or, if making for yourself, measure your own head.
Don’t spend a fortune at first. Get what you need to start or find a good deal on a vintage piece. Collecting and purchasing hat blocks can be addicting, so start slow. With a little imagination, you will be able to use your hat blocks to create a variety of shapes beyond the original one intended.
There are many different millinery stiffeners to choose from when creating your hat designs. Just be careful, some of them can be hazardous to your health!
Historically, chemicals like mercurous nitrate were used to stiffen felt and prolonged exposure led to mercury poisoning (thus the phrase, “Mad as a hatter”). These days, you can find plenty of stiffeners that are not hazardous and are water soluble. And you may have some of them in your home already!
The most basic and popular stiffeners are water-based. One of the most common is gelatin. Dissolved in hot water, it is biodegradable and user-friendly. Gum Arabic and corn starch are also homemade stiffeners that have useful applications, especially with flower making. Plus, the spray starch from your laundry room can be used to help hold rolled sinamay edges and hairspray can keep feathers in place!
The solution most often used with sinamay is a water-based solution, comprised of a PVA base (e.g. white Elmer’s school glue). It is non-toxic and non-flammable. Polyvinyl Alcohol is sometimes referred to as PVA as well, but this comes in a powder form and has to be mixed with water. All these water-based solutions can be stored for short periods in a sealed container once mixed.
Some solvent and chemical stiffeners are still available and are generally used for felts, straws or other thicker materials. Because they are hazardous materials, however, they cannot always be shipped. It is best to check this with the supplier before ordering. Some glues and stiffeners are not allowed on airplanes at all, so be careful if you are shopping overseas, too. If you do use a chemical based stiffener, always refer to the manufacturer’s safety information and use in a very well-ventilated area. You do not want to breathe the fumes in!
Stiffeners can be sprayed on, applied with a brush (as shown in the Leather Camellia Project above), or used as a solution to dip materials into. They may come in a concentrated form and need to be diluted with water for use. The ratio you use to dilute your stiffener will depend on the stiffener and material you are working with. Some stiffeners leave a light sheen once dried, which may or may not be the effect you’re looking for. All stiffeners should be tested on a small patch of the material you are working with before you begin.
Learning to work with millinery stiffeners is a process of experimentation. There is no “right” ratio; the material you are using and your personal preferences will influence which type of stiffeners you use and how much you dilute them. It is best to keep a small selection on hand to try out; different fabrics will react differently to various stiffeners. What you are making will influence your decisions as well – flower making will require different concentrations and types of stiffeners than a thick straw hat, so play around and see what works best with your hat styles and millinery designs.
]]>Looking at pictures of gravity-defying headwear styles at society events and horse races, you may have asked yourself, “How are they keeping those pieces on their heads?” This is a great question!
When designing your own hats and headpieces, you must remember to take attachment methods into consideration. Think about the best way for your client to keep their new headpiece securely (and comfortably) in place early in the design process. It is no fun to be worrying about your hat falling off when you are trying to enjoy a special occasion. And who will be wearing the headpiece? If it is for a high activity client like a stage performer, then a combination of combs and elastics may be necessary. Plus, some people may have a hairstyle or texture that may limit their headwear choices.
You should also think about what materials you have access to and what you are able to make. For instance, quite advanced millinery skills are required to create the intricate wire supports needed for some hat styles.
When you make a hat or fascinator, there are a variety of options for head attachment. Let’s go over the basic choices…
Hat elastics are thin elastic cords with metal barbed ends. The elastic is meant to be worn behind the head, under the hair. These can easily be installed on your piece by tucking the barbed edge through a space in the stitching of the inner ribbon headband. Pull the barbs through and flatten along the seam to secure.
Hair combs are simple tools that can be used alone, or in combination with an elastic or a headband. They come in metal or plastic and in a variety of sizes; I prefer to use metal combs as this eliminates breakage possibilities. There are a few different styles of combs. Combs with twisted wire prongs are nice as they give you a place for a bobby pin to be used for additional security. There are also small combs that have a snap closure which can work well for small fascinators.
Headbands (also known as hairbands or Alice bands) are a great option for wearing highly slanted and saucer hat styles. They also make a good foundation for crowns or headpieces. You can make your own headbands out of millinery wire and tubular crin for a professional finish that can be hidden in the wearer’s hair.
Pre-made headbands come in a variety of materials and sizes, but again I prefer metal to prevent breakage. You can wrap a metal headband with ribbon or tulle to create a finished look and provide a surface for sewing. Sewing a comb to a wrapped headband can also be helpful; just remember that it is best to sew the comb forward-facing to help hold the piece on when the client leans over.
This technique will take a little more practice, but it makes a very professional and easy to wear look. You will need some cotton or rayon covered millinery wire and a pair of wire working pliers. I prefer to use 19-gauge rayon, as the rayon has a smoother finish. A kickstand is basically a piece of wire that has been bent into a pair of prongs.
Leaving a few inches of straight wire at the end, use your pliers to bend a 90-degree angle into the wire. About 4” – 5” down the wire, make a 180° degree bend with a U shape at the end. Complete a “T” shape in the wire by making another 90° bend next to the first. These will need to be bound with thread to secure the joint. Move a few inches down the wire and repeat the “T” shape, then leave a wire end matching the starting end. The bent wire is sewn into the hat next to the edge wire of the hat, under the ribbon band.
Try using (and wearing) all kinds of hat attachments. They all have their pros and cons. It is important as a milliner to be prepared for your clients’ needs and to be able to judge what will best to keep each of your designs firmly in place.
You can find elastics, combs and headbands at Humboldt Haberdashery.
If you are new to millinery, finding out what you really need to start making hats can be overwhelming. There are so many hat blocks, hat making tools, specialist equipment and millinery materials out there and you certainly don’t need them all. Without a doubt, though, having a reliable way to produce steam is vital. Steam is one of a hat maker’s most important tools.
With steam, you can soften or lightly dampen millinery materials without waterlogging them or changing the density of the stiffener. After a good steaming, a felt cone will go from being stubborn and difficult to shape to being pliable and easy to stretch. Feathers perk up, veiling regains its shape and, as if by magic, a tired old hat is as good as new once steam has been applied.
While specialist tools are great, a number of common household items can also double as hat steamers. So what should you get? The answer will depend on the kind of headwear that you make, the amount of time you spend making hats and your budget. Here are 5 common hat steaming tools for you to choose from…
If you are just starting out in millinery, look around your home for steam sources that you may already have. The most common item you can use is a tea kettle. A stove top kettle is the most inexpensive option for creating steam for hat making.
For convenience (and to avoid annoyance), you may want to find a kettle without a whistle or boil switch off. Simply add water to the kettle, heat it on the stove and then control the flow of steam by adjusting the stove temperature. Once you have a steady boil, you can hold your millinery project in the stream of steam to dampen it. An electric kettle will also work and has the added advantage of being portable. The only drawback is that you will have to keep switching it back on whenever it reaches boiling point.
While a simple kettle is useful for quick touch-ups, you may already have another source of steam that can work even better – a garment, or clothing, steamer.
An upright garment steamer with a tank makes a great first hat steamer for your millinery studio. Since these types of steamers are electric they heat up quickly and are portable. This means that you can get you away from working on a stove or hot plate. Plus, having the extra water reservoir will give you a steady stream of steam for longer, so that you can work on your hats with fewer interruptions.
For some millinery materials, a handheld clothing steamer with a flat plate surface will work best. For example, using a handheld steamer on a millinery thermoplastic like Fosshape® will make blocking much easier as you can apply pressure without leaving marks.
On the downside, the water tank is much smaller on handheld steamers as opposed to the upright variety. Still, they are very useful for working on small areas and for applying pressure and steam at the same time. Plus, they are quite cheap and easy to find.
A steam generator iron, or ironing station, is a more expensive option for precise handheld steaming. A steam generator iron is a smallish steam iron that provides pressurized steam from a separate water tank supply, allowing for faster blocking through a combination of steam pressure and physical pressure.
Using a steam generator iron as a hat steamer will allow for hours of blocking without refilling the water tank. Steam generator irons are especially good when you are working with heavy or large hat blocks since you won’t have to hold them up over a steam source. This is the type of iron Ani Townsend used for steaming her hand-draped felt cloche in the photo at the top of this page.
If you are really serious about hat making, you may want to invest in a steamer made especially for blocking and shaping hats. The classic, and most popular, hat steamer for milliners is made by Jiffy.
A great all-purpose steamer, with a variety of attachments available so that you can customize your set up, a Jiffy Hat Steamer costs around $150. Of course, this is quite an investment, but, in my opinion, it is a worthwhile and reliable one. A Jiffy Hat Steamer holds plenty of water and it is easy to see the level so that you know when it is time to refill. Plus, these hat steamers heat up quickly and can be turned on and off easily using a switch on the back. This is a great tool to have sitting on your work surface, ready to use whenever you need some steam.
A hat steamer is an important tool to have, but don’t break the bank to get started. Try different types of steam sources to see what you like best.
It might seem like a small detail, but don’t underestimate the importance of ribbon for hat making. In nearly every hat you will see a ribbon headband, even in hats without linings. Ribbon has also been used to make high-end trims for hats, such as extravagant bows, cockades and flowers, for centuries.
There is a vast variety of ribbon to choose from, so it can be overwhelming to find what you need when first starting out as a milliner or hat maker. You will no doubt develop your own style that will influence what types of ribbons you use in your trim designs, but there are some basics that are helpful to keep on hand in your studio.
One of the most confusing things about millinery ribbon is understanding the difference between grosgrain and petersham. You will often see their names used interchangeably, but there is a difference between them. The easiest way to tell the difference is by looking at the edge. Petersham ribbon has a ribbed edge with distinct bumps (as shown in the photo below), while grosgrain has a smoother edge. Both types of ribbon come in a variety of widths and are useful to have on hand for your projects.
Petersham is commonly used for making the inner headband, or sweatband, of a hat and for the outer hat band, to cover the join between the crown and the brim. For inner headbands, a 1”(2.5cm) width is generally used. The scalloped edge helps the ribbon to curve when heated, which will help prevent any puckering when lining a round shape.
To curve Petersham ribbon, cut the piece to fit the circumference of the hat, with about a 10 cm overlap to be folded under. Heat an iron to high and begin on one end of the ribbon, pulling it under the iron at an angle. By pulling at an angle you will put a slight curve in the ribbon while it is ironed. Reposition as needed and continue until you get a smooth curve on the whole length of ribbon. The shorter side curve will be the top edge of the ribbon when you sew it into the hat. To hide your stitches, sew in between the bumps (making a tiny stitch about every two bumps).
Grosgrain is nice to have on hand for wrapping wire and hairbands. Satin ribbon can also be used for covering any metal in your projects. For wrapping hairbands, using a narrower ribbon width of approximately ¼” (.6cm) will make it easier to get a smooth result. To wrap a hairband, secure the tip of the ribbon to the end of the band with some glue and let dry. Wrap the ribbon with a slight overlap until you reach the center. Trim the excess, secure with glue and let dry. Repeat with the other side of the headband and finish the wrap in the center. Wrapping a headband with ribbon will create a surface to sew a hair comb or trimmings onto.
For other hat trims, you can use any type of ribbon you like. There is an endless variety of materials and sizes to choose from. One very traditional ribbon trim is a cockade. Historically used in military and political attire, these are made by pleating and gathering a colored ribbon into a circular design.
Milliners need a huge variety of tools, fabrics, blocks and trimmings. If you are new to hat making, getting your studio established with the equipment you need can be confusing and expensive.
Thankfully, being creative also means that you can figure out how to use what you already have and there are lots of everyday, inexpensive items that you can find around your home to help you make unique headwear.
An absolute necessity is plastic wrap (eg. ClingFilm or Saran Wrap). Every time you block a hat, you will need to put a fresh coating of plastic wrap onto your hat block to prevent any dyes from bleeding over from your previous work.
Aluminum foil is useful for covering blocks when you are working with Fosshape or other thermoplastics. Working with thermoplastic requires greater heat and the foil will not melt like plastic wrap can.
There is also a great product called Press‘n Seal. This material is a thick, cloudy plastic that has a sticky backside. The adhesive is tacky but easy to place and remove without leaving a residue. This material works great for covering hat blocks that have points or tight curves or corners, as the sticky side will adhere easily to the shape.
Also useful for blocking are office binder clips and mini clothespins. These items can be used to help hold binding or wire edges in place when sewing. They can be helpful for giving you an extra hand while assembling trims and other small projects.
I always keep a set of measuring spoons, a butter knife and a spoon just for my studio. I like to use dyes and measuring accurately helps to reproduce the same color results each time. Of course, I make sure not contaminate my food by keeping these utensils out of the kitchen. My spoon is not just for dyes, I use it to mix stiffeners, too. I keep the butter knife around for working with thermoplastics or making flowers, the dull narrow edge can be useful.
Tupperware containers are great for short term storage of your stiffeners once they are mixed.
A medium sized bowl is the perfect place to soak your materials in stiffener.
I also keep a couple of different sized paint brushes handy for applying stiffeners.
Did you know that you can even find millinery stiffeners in your house? For instance, I keep cheap hairspray in my studio for working with feathers. A quick spray after detail cutting can help hold your designs in place.
Spray starch from the laundry room is great for rolling sinamay edges. Spray a small amount in a bowl or lid and dip the edge of the sinamay in it. Once dampened, roll the edge and then secure it while it dries.
As you can see, there are plenty of ways that you can use household items for hat making and these are just a few ideas to get you started.
Don’t be afraid to experiment – look around for bowls or vases to use as hat blocks. Experiment with natural stiffeners like gelatin or gum arabic to see how they work with different fabrics. Grab your hair straighteners or curling iron and curl your feathers. You don’t have to have a fancy millinery studio to make beautiful hats, you just need to think outside the box!
Millinery wire is one of the most basic materials in hat making and has a multitude of uses. It comes in a range of sizes and materials, so knowing what kind to use for a specific project can be confusing at first. Here are answers to some of the most common questions that people ask about millinery wire when they start making hats…
Wire is most often used in millinery for creating shape and reinforcing hat brims, and for constructing hat frames. Beyond brims, millinery wire can be used to create extravagant frameworks for headpieces, to give feathers the illusion of floating, or as a stem for a handmade flower. It can also be wrapped with tulle or other fabric to give the wire a foundation for sewing, or to match a design.
The size and type of millinery wire you need will depend on what you want to use it for. Standard millinery wire is made from galvanized steel covered with either cotton, rayon or paper. There are also other specialized types of wire for hat making. Transparent polypropylene, sometimes called brim reed, is a form of memory wire often used to give hat brims a more flexible shape. Steel spring wire, another type of memory wire, can also be used to create flexible brims and hat shapes.
The thing to remember about wire is that the larger the number the smaller the wire! Generally, the most popular sizes of millinery wire are (from smallest diameter to largest) 23 gauge, 19 gauge, and 16 gauge. Here is a little more information about each of these:
Thankfully, millinery wire is fairly inexpensive, so it is nice to keep a small variety of wire on hand for making different projects.
Cotton covered millinery wire is available in black or white. I find that the cotton covering does not dye well, although it can be colored using permanent fabric markers. These are great for making your wire match the other materials in your hat or fascinator so it isn’t as noticeable. The rayon covered wire dyes very well, and has a smoother, even finish to it. It is great for making headbands to secure headpieces to the head, especially where the wire is exposed or part of the design. Rayon covered millinery wire is more expensive though, so cotton covered wire is more cost effective for general use.
Joiners, or ferrules, can be used to connect with two ends of a piece of millinery wire when you are making a circular or oval shape to go around the edge of a hat brim. These can be heat sealed or crimped using locking pliers, depending on their material. Metal joiners sometimes rust or break over time, though, so I find a more secure way to join your ends is by wrapping them together with a strong millinery (or doubled) thread. Tape (like the kind made by Scotch or Cellotape) is also used by some milliners to join wire ends.
Becoming comfortable working with and shaping millinery wire will enable you to create stronger foundations for your hats. What I really like about working with wire, though, is the creativity that it can inspire. By using wire techniques in combination with blocking and trims, an endless array of shapes can be created.
Wire for hat making can be purchased from specialist millinery suppliers like Humboldt Haberdashery.
The most basic stitch is the Stab Stitch. The needle is “stabbed” at right angles through the materials. This stitch is used for sewing thick layers of fabric together, or sewing through felt or straw. A sturdy long or Straw needle work best with this stitch to stand up to the thickness of the material.
A Basting or Running Stitch is a useful stitch for temporarily holding fabric layers together before final sewing. It is best to use a contrasting thread and not to pull stitches tight for easier removal. This stitch can be useful for tacking fabric to a crown, attaching a binding around a wired edge, or for gathering. This stitch may also be sewn at a diagonal, especially if sewing materials together while still on a block.
One of the most used stitches is used to sew a wire to the edge of a brim or headband. This stitch is very similar to a Buttonhole or Blanket Stitch. A blanket stitch is often used to finish edges of straw, felt or leather as a decorative stitch. To attach wire to the edge, stab the needle through, then bring back over the wire, but under the loop of thread. Run about every centimeter to secure the wire along the fabric edge.
The Backstitch is the strongest hand stitch and resembles a machine stitch when sewn evenly. By doubling back on itself, the stitch forms a continuous line. This stitch is useful for a more secure bond, or where your stitching may be showing. There is also an Open Backstitch which is sewn with the top stitch smaller than the stitch on the underside. This is used for sewing crowns to brims, as it has a little more give.
A Slip Stitch is an invisible finishing stitch for joining fabrics on the right side, or sewing fabric bindings on the edge of brims. The fabric must be folded, pinned, and lightly pressed before sewing for a clean join. The needle goes through the fold for a long stitch then picks up a very small amount of the material with a small stitch. The small stitch is what shows on the right side.
These are just the most used stitches in millinery, you may find situation or materials that require other techniques. Hand sewing can set you work apart, and it is worth the time and effort to get proficient at it. It will make your work more clean, secure and of higher value. Your clients will appreciate the personal touch and skill it takes, be sure to tell them about all your hard work when selling!
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